I have had the privilege of visiting Japan twice now, made easier by the direct flight from SFO to Tokyo on Zipair (you have to pay for all the extras like in-flight meals, but at a base round-trip price around $600, I can pay for my food). At this point, I have explored a large portion of Honshu (the most populous island where Tokyo is), and I want to provide some useful information for those planning their own trips. As always, I will share my opinions, but don’t take them as fact. Something I enjoyed, another might dislike. My spelling will also be a bit off since English and Japanese spellings differ.
General: I studied Japanese for three years in high school. My first time traveling there was 10 years later, so while I forgot much, I had the base knowledge to build from when conversing across the country. I went to Japan to visit a high school partnered with the school I taught at in California, so I can say most students are taught English at the secondary level, meaning the majority of the younger generation knows at least some English. You won’t need to worry too much about learning Japanese if you haven’t studied it already. However, I found that most people preferred it if I stumbled through Japanese rather than trying English, and they were extremely grateful and complimentary whenever I tried. On occasion, when exasperated at my halting attempts to form a complex idea, they’d switch to English. Older generations tended to know little English, and when my Japanese failed, Google Translate could fill the gaps decently (don’t rely on it completely; it often messes up tenses and other grammar). My first goal of each trip was to utilize the lessons my sensei imparted on me, and I can say that I had full conversations with a number of strangers on both of my trips. Japanese is a beautiful language but exceedingly difficult. It is challenging enough that I doubt I will ever gain a semblance of fluency.
The people were welcoming and kind. Whenever you needed help, you just had to ask. Admittedly, Tokyo, like most cities, is full of people focused on their own business and is less exemplary of the people and culture than some of the more rural areas. For that reason, it's definitely worth getting out of Tokyo. There is a lot to do there, but there is so much more to experience in the rest of the country, which is far less westernized than the city. I was happy to have experienced all I have, even if I would likely choose to skip Tokyo on my next trip.
Overall, the food was fantastic and particularly affordable if you are on an American salary. There was rarely a meal that I wouldn’t have recommended. I’ll list a few restaurants below, but know that the average place is pretty good. I did not have a lot of success with Googling places to eat (they were always super busy), so I mostly ate at whatever spoke to me, which resulted in some fun gems. I encourage you do the same. Reservations are possible if you can navigate a phone call or go in person.
Transit is probably the most expensive part. If you are going to be traveling across the country, then the Japan rail pass is the way to go. Make sure you get it from the official site. There are a number of false ones that will up the price. You can also reserve seats on that site, which comes in handy. Unfortunately, all the tickets and the pass are paper. As happened with my friend, if your pass stops working, you’ll need to talk to an official at each gate, as they won’t reissue the pass except at official offices. Keep magnets away.
Tokyo: For those of us in California, it is easiest to fly into Tokyo via Narita. There is an express train that you can take all the way to Shinjuku (it might go farther, but our hotel was in Shinjuku). On the note of accommodations, I don’t have any hotels of note to check out. I did try a pod hotel, which was very cheap and an experience, but it was a bit tight if you are on the broader or taller side. Around the city, I mostly used the various subway systems. The Japan Rail Pass worked for a few of the lines, but you would need to purchase a Suica card or individual tickets for the other lines.
Tokyo has many districts, and I likely saw most of them, but I only truly experienced a few. For example, I got a tattoo in Ikebukuro one evening and did not walk around much. Akihabara is the technology and anime district. If you want the more stereotypical representation of Tokyo, this is it. Anime characters the size of buildings, arcades every block, claw machines galore, and collectibles. So many collectibles. They have cards, games, figurines, stuffed animals, and more. It was honestly a bit overstimulating. Shinjuku seems to be the nightlife district. There are a lot of bars and clubs in every alley here, which has never been much of my vibe, so I can’t speak to their quality. However, the bar nearest our hotel was the “Kpop Men” bar, and I'll forever wonder whether it was a K-pop bar for men or a bar served by men who looked like K-pop stars. I also found Shinjuku easy to get to and from Tokyo. It has a large hub for a variety of trains, and it has a major bus station. Shibuya, famous for Shibuya Crossing, is more of a business district. It has a number of good restaurants and shops, but the shops cater more to Western brands than not (Nike, Disney, etc.). You can get some incredible views from Shibuya Sky (a mall of sorts with a tower) even if you don’t pay to go to the top. You’ll need a reservation, but TsuruTonTan is an incredible udon restaurant there. Ueno is a bit more relaxed. The park is gorgeous and worth a visit in spring, when the cherry trees are blooming.
A couple more sites of note: The Imperial Palace was a lovely and inexpensive one-way self-guided walk through the gardens about the palace. You get an up-close view of the palace, but you aren’t allowed inside as it is still the capital. The grounds are beautiful, though. Tokyo Skytree is another mall with a tower that has a 360-degree view of the city and has a glass floor in places. If you aren’t afraid of heights, this might be my favorite of the city-viewing towers in Tokyo. Tokyo Tower has more historical importance and is a pretty cool section of the city. It also has incredible views. I recommend checking out Tokyo Tower, Shibuya Sky, and Skytree, but you don’t necessarily need to go up each. Each offers incredible views from a different perspective. The varying animal cafes are a hoot and a viral component of the city, and while it was cool to meet a capybara up close, it was something that I would put firmly in the “if there is time” category of your trip. There are shrines around seemingly every corner, and some of my favorites were the less frequented ones hidden in one alley or another. The largest one I visited in Tokyo was Meiji Jingu and it was well worth it. It is a good first stop on your shrine journey if you want to learn the proper etiquette, as they have signs in multiple languages meant to instruct visitors.
If I am ever back, I will try the Mario Kart experience and kintsugi, but those are also available in other cities, and I’d like to spend more time in Osaka.
Yamanakako: My favorite place in the country on my visits so far. This town was built around a lake at the base of Mt. Fuji. I have yet to hike that glorious mountain, but it is on the list. After Tokyo, it is a breath of fresh air. Things are slower there. There are only a few restaurants, and one of them is Denny’s, but there are a few options for groceries if you want to cook. You can rent boats shaped like swans, electric scooters, or bikes to explore the lake, which is only a few miles in circumference and easily circumnavigated in an hour or two. There are a few different places to hike up and get a view of the entire lake with Fuji ruling over it all. Many of these are on the map, but the most unique is a lesser-known shrine that you have to zoom in to find on Google Maps: Yamanakakokotohiragu.
Jura Noire was a quiet, relaxing, and friendly place to sit with a coffee and baked goods, losing yourself in the views. THE PARK is known for its fluffy pancakes, and they live up to the hype. Amaama Bar and Cafe Lounge is another great spot for breakfast and chilling. The servers were very welcoming and helpful. I haven’t tried the rest of the restaurants on the main road because I availed myself of the stalls at Oshino Hakkai on more than one occasion.
Oshino Hakkai is a world heritage site near Yamanakako with free entry. It has done well maintaining an old-world Japanese aesthetic. The area has a ton of different ponds and shrines. Take your time seeing the unique offerings of each. The stalls there have amazing food with a year-round festival vibe. There is a popular pool there that, on a clear day, has a brilliant reflection of Mt. Fuji in its depths. Make an effort to visit this quieter locale and get a feel for the less visited side of Japan.
I recommend staying at Villa Kaede. The rooms have tatami floors, a private toilet, and a communal onsen. Make sure to arrive during their hours of operation or work out a time ahead of arrival. You don’t want to get caught waiting in the random spring snow flurry.
Kyoto: Though I am not that enthused about cities in general, Kyoto is incredible. It is still a large city, but it feels more manageable than Tokyo; while you won’t get some aspects of Tokyo (the towers, namely), you can get a better feel for old Japan and still trek into modern malls for your Nike and Pokémon Center. I think of the city as split in two by the Koma River, though that isn’t strictly true geographically. To the west are your modern conveniences, and to the east are the more ancient-inspired places, Gion being the main district for this. Most of the famous shrines are to the east, along with fewer brands and franchises, leaning more toward smaller shops and handmade artisanal goods. I explored the western side a bit, but I spent most of my time in Gion and the adjacent districts on the eastern side.
The one thing to the west I had the privilege of experiencing was TeamLab. I was unfamiliar with the international sensation that is TeamLab before my friends encouraged me to join them for the interactive modern art museum in its Kyoto iteration. Every location is different, and each installation takes interactivity to different levels. Speaking only of the Kyoto version, they use a lot of lighting effects on different elements and shapes, combined with well-placed speakers to create unique effects and change perceptions. It is well worth the visit if there is a location wherever you happen to visit, and as with most excursions, I encourage you to book well in advance. I will say, as a color blind individual, the works are largely geared toward those with color typical vision. Keep that in mind if you have anything more severe than protanopia.
Kyoto is known for the hundreds of shrines across the city, but my favorite was Fushimi Inari Taisha. You have probably seen pictures of the thousands of torii spanning the paths throughout this shrine. There are a number of paths throughout the grounds leading to various grounds of worship, winding through a bamboo forest and culminating in a shrine atop the hill/mountain at its heart. I expected to visit and spend maybe 30 minutes there, but I was there for over two hours and didn’t see everything. I would go back at a suggestion. The spirituality of the country as a whole is heightened by shrines like this, but this one in particular plucked a resonant tone at my center.
In contrast, or perhaps in harmony with the frequent Shinto shrines, is Kiyomizu-dera, a Buddhist temple built into the mountainside. Its perch on stilts jutting from the mountainside provides spectacular views of the city and exceptional meditative strolls. The temple itself is an architectural beauty worthy of the praises heaped on it. They host a number of events that would be worth looking into, but I was unable to attend any.
As was the case with many, the film Kokuho introduced me to kabuki theater, oft referred to as the Shakespeare of Japan. Kyoto has a storied history of this art form, and I had the opportunity to see the masterful Sonezaki Shinju (The Love Suicides at Sonezaki) at the Minamiza Theater. This play was in the movie and filmed in that same theater. There is far too much historical intrigue to go over here, but I have to thank the filmmakers for helping me understand the unique beauty of the performances. Though I ordered tickets late and had to sit in a not-great seat, it was still one of the most worthwhile experiences of my time in Kyoto.
Area near Osaka (I didn’t spend much time in Osaka proper): Nara park is famous for deer. You have probably seen the videos of them bowing to tourists in order to get food. Admittedly, it has evolved into more of a head bob than a bow. The deer are wild and so will, on occasion, get aggressive with guests. My friend received a wack with one of their antlers, as an example. I was not overly enamored with the experience. It felt quite intrusive and exploitative. I felt as if I was witnessing the results of some Pavlovian tourist trap, which is probably the best description of the park.
Himeji Castle is one of the most recognizable structures when media portrays feudal Japan. Even though we were there before the trees were in bloom, it was gorgeous, and the walk through the castle was informative and provided insight into what it might have been like to live in the compound. The wooden floors were polished to such an extreme that you could view your reflection. Be aware that you need to be able to climb a number of staircases in order to get to the top. If you visit, you should take the time to explore the other buildings. These felt more residential while the castle felt martial.
Aizuwakamatsu: This was a strange stop for us. We had originally planned to have a car, but renting a car in Japan and paying all the tolls can quickly become exorbitant. The train ride in was beautiful, and there is much in the surrounding area to see that we were not able to visit because of our lack of a car. I would rule this out of future trips without a car.
Sendai: This coastal city is located about halfway from Tokyo to the northernmost point of Honshu. It seemed to me to be a better vision of what metropolitan living in Japan is like, far less touristy than functional. Shops and restaurants piled into towers surrounding the train station provided the majority of our excursions, but it would be worth spending more time than we did in order to explore the islands, beachfront, and fish markets. I highly recommend the Hotel Monterey Sendai. Exceptional rooms and service near the train station.
Zao Fox Village, located near Sendai, is billed as a fox sanctuary with walking paths in the forest surrounded by foxes. Unfortunately, it is more of a compound with one larger, high-fenced area for visitors to walk around while foxes weave about the grounds. You should not touch them, as they are known to bite wandering fingers. The central area is surrounded by cages of foxes deemed unfit to be too near the guests. They offer opportunities to feed some of the more mellow foxes, but we were there outside feeding time. I had never had the opportunity to interact with foxes like this, and it was amazing to see all the variations on the orange Swiper variety. As I have come to recognize as a trend with the animal attractions of the country, it too felt a bit exploitative. It was more zoo than a unique walk through the natural habitats of the foxes. It is challenging to get there as well. There is a bus, but it is only (if I’m remembering correctly) every 3 hours, which would be a lot of time for the offerings, and there isn’t much else to do atop the mountain there. We used taxis each way.
Aomori: Aomori is the northernmost city of Honshu. The points of interest are downtown and the park along the water, but if you can time it right, the city is known for its festivals. Throughout the city and towns on the outskirts, you can see the intricate paper floats used during the Nebuta Festival. I wish I could have seen them lit. During festival season, that area of the country explodes with activity and joy. This final stop on our journey before returning to Tokyo was a place of rejuvenation. It was nice to simply be there and not have much try to force you from that reverie.
We stayed at Nambuya Kaisenkaku outside the city proper. A worthwhile hotel if you are in the area. The traditionally family-sized tatami rooms are the way to go, with all their cushions and seats perfect for lounging with your friends. You could almost spend your entire time in the hotel with rooms like that. That town gave off a sleepy fishing village feel, with the added views of an island in the bay and a shrine on a hill overlook. There is an aquarium there, but I didn’t go after my aforementioned realization concerning the animal experiences in the country. My friends went and said that it was mostly just sad.
It sounds strange, but if you do add this city, it is well worth having as many apples and as much apple juice as you can stomach. I drowned in the different varieties of juice complementary to our hotel. Exceptionally potent and diverse. Overall, it is a bit of a strange place to add to your itinerary, but I am always looking for the less-trodden path.
Conclusion: Visit Japan! I’m only waiting for another group of friends to suggest it before going again. I apologize for losing steam toward the end of this post, but the ends of my trips tend to be fewer excursions and more relaxation. Thankfully, Japan has great options for both. If you want excitement and fast-paced energy, it’s there. If you want to simply relax, there are places for that too. On my next trip, I will be steering toward more of the latter, which means less to tell. There is much I haven’t shared in the hopes that, if you want to know more, you can go see it for yourself. Keep Japan on your list.
